2006.09.27, 02:28 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 201
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Atomic Stock burned FETS?
Hey guys, I just put in an Atomic AD Stock motor, 19pinion, 29 spur, ball diff rear in my new MA-010 and it no longer has fwd or reverse. Steering works fine. It ran for a few seconds, then stopped, but a few seconds later it started running again. It stopped intermitently like this a about 4-5 times, but now it doesn't move at all. Could this be burned fets? Why would it start working again... I thought that onces fets burned out, it just stops suddenly.
Anyway, the fets look fine, and are not burned, or spotted or anything. I also looked for burned circuits, pinched wires etc. and nothing looks unusual.
Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem is if it's not the fets? I put a voltmeter to the motor leads and it has zero output.
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2006.09.27, 07:27 AM
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#2
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DCGTG FET Guy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 3,444
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Did you try a different motor? If it does the same thing with a different motor at least you know the motor isn't the suspect.
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2006.09.27, 07:32 AM
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#3
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Are you Fetted?
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,515
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I think the MA-010 board has thermal shutdown protection. I could be wrong.
Also your Atomic motor may have worn out brushes.
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2006.09.27, 07:36 AM
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#4
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Ninebreaker
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 56
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From my experience, the MA-010 PCB cannot handle the draw of the Atomic AD Stock motor. The last time I used it, the FETs got very warm, even with the lowest gearing (i.e highest accel) The board, however, can handle the Atomic Stock motor just fine.
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2006.09.27, 09:26 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 274
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Yes, the thermal protection that sai is talking about is in the form of a circuit breaker; that's connected to the positive lead of the motor on newer MA-010 chassis. It looks like this:
The breaker will disconnect when it gets too hot. If you have this, then it's likely that the breaker has tripped due to high current draws and got too hot. You must either wait until the breaker cool down, or if you've damaged the breaker and it will not reset, you'll have to remove it all together, but you risk frying your fets by doing this.
Notice the warped pastic on my PCB cover, I fried my fets when I removed the breaker when I ran a cheap i-waver plus motor.. bad move. The fets got so hot that the top of the cover was melted right on top of the fets. So I had to remove that part of the cover completely in order to solder on new fets.
Last edited by locwan; 2006.09.27 at 09:30 AM.
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2006.09.27, 09:35 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 201
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Thanks for the replies. Here is an update. I was looking at the Atomic AD motor and i noticed that one brush was missing! So I connected the old motor and it works! I know there was no output on the leads when I had a voltmeter on it earlier, so the circuit breaker that must explain it. It just reset after everything cooled down. Good idea Kyosho
Now i am not sure if the overheat was caused by the missing brush (causing a bunch of arcing), or if the AD motor is just too hot.
I just started mini-z again after almost 2 yrs out, so I don't really know what the diff is between the Atomic Stock, Atomic STock AWD, and Atomic Stock AD. i couldn't find anything in the forums. CAn anyone fill me in
Last edited by bw762; 2006.09.27 at 09:42 AM.
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2006.09.27, 09:46 AM
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#7
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Are you Fetted?
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,515
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My recommendation: Get the Kyosho X-speed for AWD. Long lasting and proven. Don't worry about the heat of the motor, I have run mine like that for months without problems.
The MA-010 board is actually very durable, the FETs refuse to fry in most circumstances.
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2006.09.27, 10:21 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bw762
I just started mini-z again after almost 2 yrs out, so I don't really know what the diff is between the Atomic Stock, Atomic STock AWD, and Atomic Stock AD. i couldn't find anything in the forums. CAn anyone fill me in
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Atomic stock is a 47-turn motor with neo mags, rated at 30k rpm. The Atomic AD stock is a hotter motor that is rated at 38k rpm, and was designed for the AD board PCB with standard 3010 fets, same as MA-010 (please correct me if I'm wrong). I've heard several guys that were able to run this motor with the stock MA-010 pcb withough problems, but I personally think that the extra load in the MA-010 drivetrain makes it more dangerous to run in the MA-010 unless you've properly tuned the chassis and have bearings all around. It's a good idea to keep an eye on the health of the motor as well.
I don't have any knowledge of the Atomic AWD stock, other than it's rated at 28.5k rpm, slightly less than atomic stock, but described as "tuned for awd gearing". So I imagine that it has more torque, but less top-end. Maybe the timing was retarded just a tad to achieve this?
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2006.09.27, 09:45 PM
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#9
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RITMRCC Founder
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Durham, CT
Posts: 5
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the other thing is i remember reading on their site that the atomic AD is designed for the AD board..
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2006.09.27, 10:27 PM
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#10
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motor guru
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In front of you...
Posts: 487
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The AD PCB has 4 FETS whereas the ma010 PCB only has 2. They are the same FETS, the AD just has them in a sort of h-bridge style set-up. I have run some pretty hot stuff on my ma010 and the FETS are definitely tough, I think the Atomic AD motor should be OK if it only turns 38K. I have run stuff that is faster than that in mine without any issues.
Last edited by Flashsp-2; 2006.09.27 at 10:30 PM.
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2006.09.28, 01:34 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 23
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no problems for me with my ad stock in my awd either.fast!
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2006.09.29, 12:06 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 201
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I exchanged the motor for a new AD Stock and now it works fine. No shut downs. So the problem was the missing brush causing the board to shut down.
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